How to Bike to Work (Or Anywhere Else)

With soaring gasoline prices — and a hint of autumn in the air — there’s never been a better time to start bicycling to work. Here’s how to get rolling!

Today is World Carfree Day. Now in its eighth year, this international event is a terrific showcase for alternative means of moving people from place to place. Even if you can’t leave your car in the driveway this morning, it’s a great time to consider walking, public transportation — and the greenest, most efficient form of transport ever devised: cycling.

Once a novelty of the Industrial Revolution, bicycles now supply millions of people with efficient, healthy, pollution-free daily transportation. Bicycles can reduce traffic congestion and noise. You can park a dozen bikes in the space of a single automobile, and the idea of a morning commute free of fossil fuels seems particularly attractive in the face of rising fuel costs.

Even if you only cycle once a week — on Casual Fridays, perhaps — you’ll be reducing your weekly commute’s environment by 20 percent. That’s about the same as trading your current vehicle for a hybrid, and a lot cheaper.

Yes, you’ll sweat. No, you won’t smell like a horse around the office. Yes, you can really do this. You’ll be healthier and a little richer for the experience.

But commuting by bicycle takes planning. Let’s get started!

Make it work at the office

There’s an old saying that a journey starts with a single step. With bicycle commuting, though, your journey begins with deciding what happens once you arrive.

The first thing you need is a secure place to park your bike at work. Bikes tend to get in the way indoors, so keep yours out of hallways where people might knock it down or get their clothes greasy. A back room or storage area might work, but your best bet is probably outside — a covered location, if possible — with something solid for a locking support.

Mornings are the coolest time of day to ride, but depending on the length of your commute, you may want a place to change or freshen up. Talk to your employer about your plans and the possibility of setting up a bike-to-work program. If there are no suitable facilities where you work, look for a public washroom (or even a gym shower) within easy walking distance of your destination. You really don’t need much: just some privacy and room to change.

Are you in good enough shape?

Probably so. Whether you’re a casual commuter or a pro bike racer, cycling is all about pace.

The biggest mistake made by beginner cyclists is pushing too hard a gear. Regardless of how many “speeds” your bike might have, choose a midrange gear in which you can comfortably turn the pedals at 70 or 80 revolutions per minute. Over mixed terrain, use your gears to maintain this rhythm. This is the secret to efficient cycling. Spin — don’t grind.

Commuting should be a gently aerobic activity. If you’re feeling winded, ease back. As your fitness improves, you’ll be able to turn bigger gears at that 70 to 80 rpm cadence. Ride for pace, and the speed will come naturally.

As with all exercise regimes, consult your physician or primary care-giver before getting started.

Key consideration: route planning

The shortest way to work may not be the best. Scout roads with marked bicycle lanes. If none are available, look for routes that avoid overly narrow roads, tricky bridges or intersections, and open storm gratings.

Routes through residential areas are pleasant and usually have the benefit of lower traffic. But keep in mind that people are heading to work at the same time you are, and the most dangerous place on the road for a cyclist is the foot of a driveway. Watch for distracted drivers backing into the street. Avoid the temptation to hop up onto a sidewalk: it decreases the time a car has to spot you, and bikes are a hazard to pedestrians.

Once you’ve found a good route — find another. Part of the fun of cycling is slowing down enough to really see things. Vary your commute and keep things fresh.

It’s not about the bike … entirely

As Tour de France champion Lance Armstrong pointed out in his autobiography, it’s not about the bike. You can commute on anything — but the right equipment will certainly make your experience safer and easier.

If you’re going to be riding before the sun is fully up or after it sets, you must have lights. Most municipalities have very specific regulations about the degree of lighting required by night-riding cyclists, and common sense dictates you get as bright as possible. Here’s the good news: a properly lit cyclist in reflective clothing is generally more conspicuous than a daytime rider.

Whether they’re legally required or not, ride with an approved and well-fitting helmet. A “lid” can be the difference between a scraped knee and a hospital stay. Or worse.

We’ll discuss the selection of commuter-specific bicycles in future articles. But rain fenders and a good bike rack will keep you cleaner and make your bike more useful.

Choosing what to carry

Some commuters cycle in their work clothes. Depending on the length of your ride, your fitness, and local climate, this might be an option for you.

Not all of us live in cool, flat place like Holland, so you may need to carry a change of clothes on the bike. A towel and a washcloth in a ziplock bag will make freshening up a breeze, along with whatever cosmetics or personal items you’ll need for the day.

It’s smart to learn how to change a tire. Most bike shops will be happy to show their customers the ropes, and it’s a quick roadside job once you’re in the know. You’ll need a flat kit: a spare inner tube, two or three tire levers, and a rag to check the inside of your tire for glass. There are also flat-resistant tires and tubes. They’re a bit heavier and more expensive than their conventional equivalents, but well worth the money.

Buy an impressive lock. Kryptonite is the dominant manufacturer in this field. In any case, look for a case-hardened chain or heavy aircraft cable model. Bicycle locks can be defeated, but a sturdy chain wrapped through your frame, both tires, and a secure anchor will make your bike much less attractive to a casual thief.

Finally, carry water. You should drink regularly while riding — at least one standard water bottle per hour. Diluted sport drinks work well, too. If you’re thirsty, you’re not drinking often enough.

Enjoy your ride!

Traveling by bicycle is a healthy and environmentally friendly way to move around. Enjoy the fresh air and sunshine — and check back for more tips on cycle commuting bikes and gear.

How to Pick a Great Used Bicycle

Bicycles are perhaps the greenest mode of mechanical transportation — and a good one needn’t cost a fortune. Here’s how to identify a great used bike.

Other than walking, there’s no more Earth-friendly mode of transportation than a bicycle. Bikes have an incredibly low manufacturing footprint when compared to a motorized vehicle. They’re cheap to operate, don’t pollute the air, and provide more miles per calorie of energy than any mode of getting around known to humankind. Best of all, a properly maintained bicycle should last for decades.

Which makes bikes a good candidate for buying used. You can pick up a quality bicycle for a fraction of their original purchase price, and it will give you many years of reliable service. But you’ll need to know what to look for.

We’ve put together a guide to help you locate a terrific used bicycle and assess its condition. Ready to roll? Let’s ride!

Where to find a quality used bike

By far, the best place to locate a ready-to-ride used bicycle is your local bike shop. If the shop is of any quality at all, you can be reasonably assured their used models have been vetted, adjusted, and are ready to hit the road.

Private sales are another good option. Cycling enthusiasts looking to upgrade their equipment are a great source of lovingly ridden machines. You’ll find them on eBay, Craigslist, and specialized listings such as rec.bicycles.marketplace newsgroup .

Finally, there are the old standbys of garage sales, flea markets, pawn shops, and police auctions. You can find some great deals here, but you’ll also need enough bicycle knowledge to recognize which bikes are junk, and which are treasures.

Evaluating a used bicycle

If you have a question about the condition of a used bike, take it to a shop for inspection. Bicycles are simple and reliable, but they must be properly maintained for safe operation. Here’s a checklist of things to consider before purchasing any secondhand bike.

• Frameset: Paint chips are like beauty marks — they’re inevitable, and add character. Expect dings and scratches. What you don’t want, particularly in aluminum frames, are significant dents. These can act as failure points. Carefully check the lugs or welds where the frame is joined together. Welds should be even. Cracking of any kind is a show-stopper. So are bends at the dropouts (where the wheels attach to the frame). There should be no play in the front fork. Small areas of oxidation or rust are primarily just a cosmetic issue.
• Handlebars: Never ride a bicycle with unplugged handlebars. If you can see the hollow of the bars, you must replace the handgrips are bar plugs before saddling up. In an accident — even a minor fall — unplugged bars are an impalement hazard. The bottom of racing-style “butterfly” handlebars should be roughly parallel with the ground. Replace worn or missing bar tape.
• Saddle: Replace torn or obviously worn saddles. There should be no play whatsoever. Generally speaking, saddles should be adjusted parallel to the ground. Sitting in the saddle, your leg should have a slight bend at the bottom of the pedal downstroke. If your pelvis rocks when you are pedaling quickly, the saddle is probably too high. Lower it bit by bit until the rocking goes away. Verify that the seatpost clamp is free of cracks or obvious distress.
• Brakes: Check for worn or dried-out brake pads. These must be replaced, along with frayed or rusty brake cables. Braking should feel positive. Look for cracked or bent brake levers.
• Drivetrain: Wiggle the crankset. Side-to-side play indicates worn bearings or an improperly adjusted bottom bracket. The same applies to pedals. Replace a chain if it’s rusty or has frozen links. Chains and rear gear cogs become mated with use, so chain replacement may require the purchase of a new gear cassette. Spin the freewheel and listen for the chatter of broken bearings. Lift the rear wheel — you may need help for this — and verify that shifting is crisp through all gears. You should be able to shift into the largest and smallest rear gear without the chain jamming or becoming unshipped. If this isn’t the case, the gearing requires adjustment. On bicycles with rear derailleurs, inspect the rear brake hanger for bends or cracking.
• Wheels: As with the crankset, side-to-side play in a bicycle wheel indicates poorly maintained hubs. Squeeze the spokes with your fingers. The tension should feel equal across the entire wheel. Loose spokes indicate serious problems. Rims require periodic adjustment to remain “true” (straight). Stand over each wheel and use the brake pads as a visual reference. Spin the wheel. A small amount of side-to-side motion can usually be corrected. Up-and-down rim motion cannot. Rims should smooth and free from road impact damage. Tires should hold the rated sidewall pressure. Replace tires exhibiting dry rot, worn tread, damaged sidewalls, or tears exposing inner ply.

What should you pay?

Do your homework and find out the cost of new bicycles in your shopping class. A well-maintained used bike — ready to ride — will command up to half its purchase value. You’ll need to take any necessary repairs into account as you size up a potential purchase.

So knock on some doors, get a good sense of the marketplace, and expect to find some good values. Then saddle up! Here’s wishing you smooth roads and endless tailwinds.